Travelling Light

Travel Tips for India and Bhutan

By Pamela Croci

Our experience with planning any trip has been to keep in mind worthwhile tips, step into the void and follow whatever comes up. Of course, book transport there (return) and accommodation on arrival, and depending on the season, hotels in key areas. Doing this meant that there was time for opportunities that truly resonated, to guide us to some extraordinary places. Recently we returned home, with a sense of accomplishment, rather than tired from trying to see too much, and not having the space of mind, to appreciate the place or the people. Some time ago, we did go on a long trip, with everything organised within an inch of its being, and we found this exhausting.

If you have a more organised habit, are travelling with children or if this is your first time to India then I recommend engaging a tour guide. Less anxiety if you have advice regarding hotels and a car to take you around places like Delhi. However try and give yourself some free days just to wander. In India the main pilgrimage places are a must especially if time is limited. For the rest of your life you will find them to be so inspiring as your mind can return to them again and again.

Zangpo Palri of Kurjey up ahead - Bumthang, Bhutan photo Hugo Croci

In Bhutan, unless you are travelling with exceptional Government approval you are required to have prearranged bookings with a tour company. Our driver and our guide were very accommodating and always asked us where and what we wanted to see. Any homework would be, to take note of special places where wonderful masters have been and with whom you feel a particular connection.

Travelling around India and Bhutan can not be done with tight schedules. Things happen. Roads are slow. Trains can take forever. However if time is a consideration, flying has improved enormously. Not as cheap obviously but not horrendously expensive either and very convenient. To keep costs down book air travel online before you leave and if you need to change flights this can be done for less than buying there as you go. Well that was our experience. At Airports make sure you have checked your luggage and that you are not carrying anything questionable. Security at Indian airports is now very strict so be prepared for several checks.

Please be careful with food. We travelled recently with our 15 yr old and he became very ill from what we think was a bag of potato chips. This is a time only to feed your body sustenance not to indulge in western habits. We had been warned that Bhutan’s food was only chilli, chilli and more chilli. Not so. Mainly it was rice with lots of fresh vegetable dishes, sometimes dhal, sometimes great mushrooms and yes, always with chilli as a side dish.

Regarding your health it is wise to carry some supplies. (See Nikki and Paula’s Medicine Chest list.) When our son was sick in Varanasi we went to a very good hotel and were looked after by an excellent doctor who was called to the room by the hotel. Of course becoming ill was unfortunate but able to be met without too much hardship.

Heart of Bhutan, Taksang photo Pamela Croci

Money tips: You can use rupees in Bhutan but don’t have notes in denominations above 100 Rupees. Not 500, not 1000, as they will not be accepted. Bhutan is mostly cash only country. There are a couple of ATMs. One at the airport and one in Thimpu. $US Dollars are accepted.

Regarding clothes. Check weather conditions in the immediate area in which you are travelling. Be like a chameleon – blend. We found one lot of outer layers work with good thermals and several pairs of comfortable socks. Scarves for extra warmth and colour. If travelling in summer, cover up. A simple shirt costs around $5.00 so you can buy, wear and pass it on. Try and contain everything within one bag. Travelling with warm sleeping bag is sensible if staying in cheaper hotels. Have passports, money always close. If possible don’t leave visas until the last minute. We left getting our visa into Sikkim until Siliguri when we could have done this at Sikkim House in Delhi. It worked out however it could have been very inconvenient not only for us but also for others.
That’s it. Have a wonderful time.

There are many special places in and on the way to Bumthang,
Central Bhutan.

It takes a full day to get there over a beautiful and worth every bump in the road.
Here are a few:
Jakar:
Jamba Lhakhung (7th century) ask to see Pema Lingpa’s chain shawl
Walk through the fields to
Kurjey Lhakhung and Kurjey Zangpo Palri (Guru Rinpoche Head print)
Tamshing Lhakhung – Pema Lingpa’s Monastery
Namkhai Nyingpo’s Monastery Kharchu overlooking Bumthang
Out of Jakar:
Kunzangdrak – Pema Lingpa’s Retreat (steep walk)
Dechenling – where Pema Lingpa was born and lived (shorter walk half way to Kunzangdrak)
Mebartsho (Burning Lake)
On the road back to Thimpu via Punakha
Choe Drak – Tharpa Ling Monastery – Longchenpa cave and Nyoshul Khen’s Kudung – short steep walk from car
At Punakha:
Punakha Dzong – exquisite painting of Buddha in main monastery
Not far out of Punakha
Chimi Lhakhang – Drukpa Kunley’s Monastery -a joyful walk through the fields
and
In Sikkim on the way to Tashiding is a wonderful Guru Rinpoche cave called
Kharchu Sangphog “ Secret cave of the Dakinis “